Thank you for great service!
Shoes in the video:
Use code Misha10 for 10% discount on my merch:
Support our content creation via PayPal:
Join this channel to get access to exclusive perks:
Get in touch with me on social:
Disclaimer: the actions performed in this video are executed by professionals or individuals that consider themselves professional on a closed circuit within the local regulations.
Casey Putsch reviews a selection of his shoes and explains what makes real racing shoes and what kind of shoes are best for performance driving, manual transmissions, and race cars. The results will surprise you! […]
When it comes to driving, comfy shoes are most definitely key! So, have yours made the list? 👀 Driving Test Success 4 in 1 Theory Test Kit 👉🏼 Join over 900,000 other learners over on […]
Copyright © 2026| Racing Perfect.com| Hosted by EWS
O so the Salvatore felagamo drivers i got aren’t driving shoes ? 🙃
The topic is so generalised, it’s the same as asking “which medicine do you need for illness?”
It depends on so many factors.
Certain driving styles demand VERY different shoe types,
eg. when a simultaneous coverage of brake and throttle is needed for instant heel/toe alternation (eg.Jean Ragnotti) – in this case, wide-sole sneakers are the best option (eg. Adidas Strutter).
For narrow-footwell cars, a narrow, single-seater driving shoe or mocassins are a must.
When ultimate braking feel is needed, sole thickness is your friend for servo/boosted brakes, and
it’s your enemy for non-assisted brake setups.
For proper ankle protection in case of an accident, high top shoes are needed – but they also restrict the speed of switching from throttle to brake.
The narrow, thin soled Puma Cat series are usually useless in tintop cars, as the surface area for covering throttle and brake is minimal, hence lap time seconds are “left at the table” so to speak.
For most tintop cars, you need reasonably wide soles, and in some applications – the widest you can find.
It’s all very very complicated and usually opposing factors are at play, making it near impossible to have one type of shoes for all driving scenarios/needs/vehicle types/Motorsport categories.
If such a one-size-fits-all compromise solution is needed, however, a simple, medium- width /medium- thickness sneaker can do wonders (eg. NB 373 or Adidas Gazelle/Samba, depending
on sole thickness
preference).
For my style of driving, a very wide sole is definitely the fastest in terms of net lap time. (the Strutter are almost perfect, although a bit on the heavy side hence a tad too inert.)
It’s amazing how much laptime ppl lose simply because they opt for narrow sole-width shoes.
They are only useful in single-seaters, where every milimeter of space counts.
For most touring cars, a wider sole gives way better laptimes,
as less time is spent in lateral movement from brake to throttle.
As usual, useless video. Many words and no sense. You are not prepared.
well skateboarding uses well builts. i had high hopes in the brand name “Fallen” they had a dynamic rubber sole michelln tried outclass but failed. now a motosport shoe is very important, your doing a lot of response on brake hits and clutch. a work steel cap boot can deliver gas to a peddle. a good shoe can deliver something called under swing and catch on a peddle,. leaving laces underneath than can catch. slowing response, Hence a silky upper. you want a good rubber sole, a type of gum for for grip, and response on the peddle. this is why skating and moto have in oommon on it’s Shodding . using laces in a shod is a no no if you want professional shodding for peddles, they, catch, they become undone, killing you at speed. get stuck or even worse a wrap around.